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| And so it begins |
The coax going out to my Hustler 4BTV antenna has been with me for a very long time. I would say it is at least 14 years old or more. I felt now that the summer is here and I have some spare time on my hands, it was time to change it out. I did not want to wait for it to start failing, as you know, would be either during a contest in which I was doing better than I ever have or in the dead of winter. This coaxial cable is RG-8X, and it has been performing great without any issues. I will be replacing it with brand-new RG-213 coax, which is slightly larger in diameter and more efficient than the RG-8X. Now, my run is only 40 feet, but RG-213 seemed more robust.
The old coax RG-8X is underground about 3 feet deep and was placed in a flexible plastic conduit that is used for running electrical wire in a concrete slab during construction. The plan was to cut off the PL 259 on the RG-8X, attach a string to it and pull the RG-8X out of the tubing, leaving the string to be used to pull the RG-213 back through the pipe. Being an electrician and pulling my fair share of cables in metal conduit, metal flex and plastic flex piping, there are some very important things to remember. This is a short run, so a string was fine, but most often it is a fiberglass fish tape.
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| Secure at one pulling medium at one end |
Anyway....next is to make sure whatever you use to pull the cable, that it is not going to come off as you're pulling. It has happened to me, and it is a sinking feeling, and you have to start all over again. Next, when you are pulling something like thick RG-213, make sure you do not fasten the puling rope to the outside of the coax and then tape it up and start pulling. Because with the pulling rope on one side of the wire or coax cable being pulled, it has a tendency to face downward and rub along the pipe or in my case, the ribbed plastic piping. This will cause the coax to constantly get jammed, and when you are alone, that means going to the other end to pull it back and back to the pulling end....and back and forth. In the case of coax, strip it down to the center conductor and attach the pull string, fish cable or wire to that. This will allow the cable being pulled to stay in the center of the pipe. Finally, if you are using a string as your pulling medium or wire, make sure you absolutely secure the opposite end to something. I have not secured it from time to time, and what happens is that you "think" you have enough string to make it through the pipe. You then go to the other end and start pulling the old coax out, then you remove the string, fasten it to the center conductor of the new coax to be pulled back. You then venture to the other end to pull on the string, and it's GONE! It turns out it was not long enough. As you pulled the old cable out it's now in the pipe, and good luck getting another string fish line through you better have a fiberglass flexible fish. To stop this from happening secure the string at the opposite end, then as you pull, and things come to a sudden stop, you can go to the other end, see that the string has reached its limit, and you can add more.
Let's talk about putting the good old PL-259 on the coax. I am sure all of us have done this at one time or another, but first, ALWAYS put the barrel on the coax, the part of the PL-259 that threads the PL-259 in place when you connect to the radio. I have in the past done a great job at soldering, and then to realize the threaded barrel is not on the coax!
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| Make sure it on and in right direction |
Here is how I solder a PL-259 to RG-213, and I have to say this was not my idea, but I watched a YouTube video by VA2PV, and he had a great process, which I followed and will share with you. If you would also like to see his YouTube video on it, click HERE to see it.
First thing, as mentioned earlier, I place the threaded barrel on the coax
Oh, and another side note, make sure it is right side up, as yup, I have placed it on the wrong side in the past, and it was upside down! Once the barrel is on the coax, put your PL-257 beside the coax with the tip at the top edge of the coax. Now, make note of where the small threaded section on the PL-259 is in relation to the coax. It is at this spot that you will be removing only the outer plastic from the RG-213. I use a razor knife with a brand-new blade to do this. Go slow and carefully, not to cut or nick the braid. I have seen tools to do this, but I just do not do enough connectors to justify the piece.
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| Jacket removed at threaded section |
With the braid now exposed, your next step will be to solder all or for sure most of it.
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| Braid soldered |
Get your connector again and lay it beside the soldered braid section again, lining up the tip of the PL-259 with the top of the RG-213. Make note of where the plastic section starts that insulates the center conductor from the shell. Using your razor knife again, cut into the tinned braid to remove the braid and the center plastic, exposing the center conductor. Again, be careful not to nick the center conductor. If done correctly, you will have a nice, clean break between the braid, the plastic insulator and the center conductor.
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| Braid and plastic removed |
At this point, I will solder tin to the center conductor so it does not come apart while inserting the PL-259.
It's now time to put the PL-259 body on the coax, and with RG-213, there is no reducer to worry about, as the PL-259 will screw onto the coax. Before you begin this, what I do is I place the PL-259 body beside the prepared coax. I line it up as if it were installed on the coax. I do this so it shows me where the PL-259 will stop on the coax when it is fully seated. At this spot, I place a piece of electrical tape so I know where to stop. I have heard stories where the op keeps turning the PL-259 body onto the coax, and suddenly the plastic insulator between the center conductor and body dislodges from the main body.
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| Stop mark when installing PL-259 |
With the PL-259 fully seated, it is time to again check to make sure you put the threaded part of the connector on the coax and that it is right side up. Then you can solder the braid and center conductor. For this, I have my Weller soldering station on high with the largest tip.
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| PL-259 on and ready to be soldered |
After the braid is soldered, let the PL-259 cool down and check for shorts (Between the braid and the center conductor). Then, solder the center conductor again, wait for it to cool and check again for a shorts.
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| Checking |
If the PL-259 is outdoors, put on some self-amalgamating tape and some Scotch Super 33+ as it has a great temperature range to it.
